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Some of the more common potential faults associated with the French & Italian range
If the suspension is "hard" and the car appears to be bouncing out all of your fillings...
[BX/CX/Xantia/XM]
The suspension spheres are more than likely done for. Over time, 6 to 10 years on average the spheres slowly lose their pressure. Each sphere has a diaphragm within. On one side the LHM fluid, on the other, nitrogen gas which during use is the compressable medium. If the diaphragm becomes breached or porous the gas side fills with oil. That sphere will then be about as useful as a chocolate teapot. At this stage there is no other cure other than to replace the unit (pairs are highly recommended). Spheres can be regassed or 'reconditioned', but this is only possible BEFORE they reach this stage. Buying new ones has become the common trend, mainly as replacement units are now quite cheaply available. For some models a 'comfort-sphere' is available which gives a softer ride.
Punto no-go
[Punto 1996>]
We have been experiencing an upsurge in Punto ECU failures. Commonly due to water ingress from the heater matrix. There is a couple of fixes for this being A) have your existing unit repaired. or B) Fit a new replacement unit. The new unit will need to be coded to YOUR vehicle so will require aquisition (good word) of the four letter (apt) code. Fiat do make a charge for supplying the code.
Erratic or surging whilst idling
[Most petrol injection models]
Some of the petrol models suffer a vibration or rough idle. This can commonly be sorted by replacing the stepper motor (also referred to as an idle speed motor, idle valve or motor) It might be worth trying to remove the unit and cleaning the solenoid. The fault usually returns after a while so the best cure is to just whang in a new 'un.
Everytime I go over a pothole or sleeping policemen (sorry officer) I get GA-Donk! GA-Donk!
[205gti & Td/ZX/306/Xantia/406/XM/606/Punto/Brava/147/156+
The antiroll bar link (rod) ball joints have probably become worn. Like any worn ball joint, the ball will rattle around inside it's cup when agitated. There is no cure other than to replace the rod. The vehicle will have an Antiroll bar running laterally across the suspension from one side to the other. The rod links the bar to the lower suspension arm or track control arm. Most versions will be a metal (plastic on some ZX/306's) rod with a ball joint at each end. Early ZX's have a small unit shaped like a figure '8', whereas Fiats, Alfas and most Renaults have a pin & bushes arrangement. But, they all wear out just the same.
My drivers door has dropped and doesn't latch shut easily anymore
[Xantia]
The hinges are welded to the 'A' post of the vehicle. Or at least they are supposed to be! The 'A' post is a double skinned affair, but in some instances the factory weld does not appear to have penetrated through to the second layer. What happens is that the single skin holding the door becomes weak with metal fatigue and eventually cracks and allows the door the fall away. If left indefinately the door would literally drop off its top mounting. Go out and check yours by opening the door to 90º and trying to lift the door. if any movement can be detected where the hinge is welded, or any cracking or weakness is evident, get it welded through to both skins. It is a very fiddly job and should be undertaken by a competant welder. this fault appears to be more common in estate versions.
I get a scraping noise from the rear brakes, but the pads seem ok
[Xantia/C5]
This is an odd one but very common in the Xantia, and is reappearing in the C5's (Come on Pierre you knew this would happen!). The rear brake caliper is mounted on a rear suspension arm bracket. Due to electrolysis (nice word) between the steel of the arm and the alloy of the caliper body, a build up of white corrosion appears. This happens very slowly, but like a daisy slowly pushing it's way up through tarmac the corrosion slowly pushes the caliper away from the bracket. Eventually the caliper becomes misaligned to the brake disc, which in turn causes the top and bottom edges of each brake pad to come into contact with the disc (the grating noise). In the end the disc can be unevenly worn. Assuming you can put up with the noise that long. To remedy this effect simply remove the caliper, carefully clean up the mating surfaces and liberally apply 'copper grease' to both surfaces befor refitting. This will stop the electrolysis for quite some time. Certainly till the next pad change.
My rear wheels appear to be inclining inwards at the top
[BX/Xantia/Ax/Saxo/206/Punto+]
This is due to worn trailing arm bushes. The rear arm pivots on two bushes and is held in by a chuffin' great bolt. The bushes wear allowing the arm to tilt at an angle. Makes the thing look like an 'overloaded VW Beetle'. Simple cure, get yourself a bush repair kit. they will come with all the appropriate bits to do the job. If however it has been left for too long the trailing arm housing may have become damaged necessitating complete replacement of the beam. Sadly For the Ax/saxo/206 brigade this IS the only course of action. Replacement bush kits are not currently available, however we can now source exchange axles. Please do enquire regarding price.
Rattle, Rattle Bloody Rattle from the back end !!! AARGGGHH
[Xantia Activa]
What you need my son is a new bush. No put the gardening supplement away. The Activa is fitted with a ram on the rear anti-roll mechanism. The end bush when worn makes itself known quite audibly. The bush will be less than a tenner and is fitted into a tapered housing so make sure you're pulling it out through the BIG end!
My beautiful twinspark sounds like an old knackered Cortina!
[Twinspark Models]
Here we have a classic case of poorly cam timing variator. It's virtually a service item on all 1.4/1.6/1.8/2.0 16 valve T.spark engines (97-02) & JTS engines (02 onwards) when changing the cam belt. Replacement of the variator will eliminate that annoying diesel type rattle when starting up, or at low revs and will also improve performance noticeably. All variants use the same unit, just ask for a 60666199 and all will be well with the world and your Alfa. (not recommended as a DIY job).
Total steering failure!
[Late Punto/Bravo/Brava/Megane]
Pretty scary one this. On the Fiats, it'll probably boil down to one of two things. Either the electronic torque sensor within the mechanism has failed necessitating replacement of the whole column/pump assembly. Or possible failure of the electronic control unit which is located on the same column/pump unit but is available seperately.
Peculiar steering
[Saxo/106/307/Clio]
Increasingly popular is the gradual or not so gradual deterioration of power steering. With the electrical pumps fitted to various Citroens and Peugeots giving up the ghost, common symptoms are intermittant heavy steering or permanent loss of power steering. (A bit hairy on roundabouts!). The system is protected by a fuse in the fuse box. This is of course your first port of call. Secondly, check the control relay. Early versions have a relief relay with a round multi-block connexion. Later versions have a standard looking relay. Both should be less than the price of a pint. If the relay tests out OK, then you are almost surely looking for a new pump.
Loss of power or intermittant no-go
[Hdi variants]
Sadly another fairly predictable fault. Fuel lift pump failure on every Hdi version. If your Hdi has died on you, occasionally a hefty thump and a hearty expletive will get her going again temporarily. The bit to swear at is the fuel pump/sender unit located in the fuel tank (under the rear seats on most models). You may be able to 'limp' home albeit with little power. A replacement pump unit will usually bring performance and reliability back into the realm of normalcy.
Loss of power, poor performance or no-go
Another favourite whilst we're on the subject of non-starters is the 'double relay'. This fellah controls fuel/ignition systems and failure can be a cause of fuel or ignition failure (strange that innit?). The unit is usually located under or around the ECU under the bonnet, or behind the headlamp. A few we've encountered have suffered water damage and/or pin corrosion too. The unit is usually black, or a rather fetching shade of terracotta darlings. But it doesnt always follow that like colours are compatable. They are commonly cobbled together by Bitron and sport an ID number on the relay body that will resemble 1304 or 1307 or some such. The multiblock connexion is also designed so that the incorrect relay cannot be fitted.
[Variants fitted with Sagem SL96 ECU]
Increasingly we are seeing problems with the SL96 ECU. This is caused initially by coil pack failure. The coil essentially 'spikes' the ECU. Should an ECU require repair or replacement it is essential that the coil be also replaced with the new type bougicord coil pack, as this could well have been the actual cause of the problem in the first instace. Failure to do so will cause your new ECU to go 'poof' too.
Various Citroen and Peugeot models are susceptable including;-
Citroen Saxo 1.4 mpi 99-03
Citroen Xantia 1.8 16v mpi (lfy) 95-02
Citroen Xsara 1.4 mpi (kfx) 97-02
Peugeot 306 1.4 (kfx) 97-02
Peugeot 306 1.8 (lfy) 97-02
Peugeot 406 1.8 (lfy) 95-02
Peugeot Partner 1.4 (kfx) 97-02.
Airbag warning on (intermittant)
The dreaded clutch cable clip, which when it goes can leave you stranded. Citroens often have small nylon clips that hold the clutch pedal onto the end of the cable. The original routing of the clutch cable also often means that it is close to the exhaust, causing the cable to dry out and go stiff over time. The increase in pressure on the pedal (heavy clutch) causes the clips to deteriorate, and eventually breaks leaving you unable to depress the clutch or select any gears. If this happens in an awkward place, drop the car into first or second gear, and drive it on the starter-motor onto the pavement and off the road until you can be recovered (this fault cannot be repaired by the road-side). Replacing the clip is a fiddly job and it’s also important to check why the failure occurred in the first place (in some cases worn clutches can cause the entire mechanism to become stiff, though usually it’s down to a dry or failing cable). Replacing the clip is not a job for the faint-hearted as access is difficult, so if this happens to you, I recommend you give eurocarcare a call!.
Happens when the heater-matrix (which carries hot water from the engine to warm the cabin) springs a leak due to corrosion or damage due to excess pressure. The first sign of this might be a wet carpet in the passenger side foot well. Unfortunately it’s probably also one of the first components that gets placed in the car when constructing the interior, and typically means the removal of the dash-board in order to repair or replace. It’s a big job and shouldn’t be undertaken lightly, and it’s also important to find out why the matrix has deteriorated. A failing head-gasket leading to pressurization of the cooling system is a common reason (check for a leaking or flow restricted radiator in conjunction with this). The best action you can take against preventing this problem, is to ensure that you have your coolant changed every two years, and to ensure that the system is appropriatly flushed each time.
So, your normally smooth-running Hdi sounds like it's suffering an injector tick or tappet rattle. If it sounds VERY rattly STOP DRIVING IT NOW!!
Seems like a strange thing to occur, but it is pretty common. Saxos have an inherant fault with the ignition switch that causes both the heater fan and the heated rear window to become inoperative. The best remedy is to replace the switch unit. Under no circumstances attempt to source a feed from any of the other contacts as HRW and fan motor both draw heavily on current which will overload an already overloaded contact. Either that or invest in a fire extinguisher or some quality insurance.
Typically, a great idea gone bad. CV boots used to be made of good old rubber. With time they happily perished, split and liberally greased your wheel arch with lovely black goop. If not regreased and replaced soon it was bye-bye CV joint. Nowadays of course thats all history. Boots are made of rigid neoprene and are virtually indestructable. A/ Buy a complete kit from the main dealer for extortion + Vat, Throw away the new boot and fit the clip
wanna phone a friend?
As Peter points out, an annoying ticking can occur from the front calipers on Xantias. This is caused simply by broken or corroded anti-rattle shims fitted with the brake pads. The ticking invariably is noticable at 40mph or less. The remedy is of course to either replace the shims, or go the whole hog and fit new pads which 'should' come with the shims.
Fuel Leak/Smell
An annoying and potentially dangerous and expensive fault is emerging. We are finding many petrol models of all makes coming in with fuel smell or poor
fuel economy booking in. Many of these cars have the same fault. Simply fuel leaking from the fuel filter mounted under the car (usually near the tank).
The cause is simply corrosion.
Stinky-Poo! Bang!
It's that stop-motion frame of Wile E Coyote just before the explosion that always raises a grin with me. Not so funny if it's in your Cinquecento or Seicento. fairly common fault this one. So much so Fiat were changing tanks under warranty. If you have a late Sei check with your Main dealer, they will have a record of whether the tank has been replaced yet. For older Cinq's or Sei's with that worrying fuel stench, check the tank for tell tale streaks. It's usually obvious. If nothing seems apparant it's well worth pulling up the rear seat and removing the triangular inspection plate. Underneath you will be presented with the fuel level sensor and the fuel pump tops. Check for any dampness. This may not be blatent, On mine it only appeared after a couple of miles with a 3/4 full+ tank and it was a pretty minimal leak, but enough to make any journey a psychedelic experience.
Oil Leak from Head Gasket
If you own any of these variants you will undoubtedly come across a head gasket leak eventually, if you haven't got one already. They all leak from the right hand corner of the engine. It's a minor leak, they all do it, if you fork out to change the gasket it will return like last nights newkie 'n kebab.
Misfire - No power - No-go
Very common fault. Get your 'pencil' coils checked. The 16 valve versions use a long thin ignition coil (one per cylinder) that takes the place of the conventional ignition leads. They are sadly VERY prone to breaking down. A faulty coil, apart from making the car a pig to drive may cause catalytic converter damage, as unburny fuel will find its way to the cat and eventually kill the poor thing.
No-go
If she won't go, but the battery is good, the starter is spinning well. Check out the TDC (Top Dead Centre)/Crank position sensor. This little fellow can invariably be found residing in the vicinity of the flywheel. Usually fixed to the clutch bell housing.
Clonk! - over bumps
In a word, 'Anti roll'...thats two words. Ok, in two words. 'Anti Roll bar'.... Ok three. 'Anti Roll Bar Links....
If your Anti Roll Bar Links or Rods or Bushes are talking to you, the only course of action is to get them changed. Prepare to have to hacksaw the old ones off as the nuts are almost always seized. So make sure you get new nuts with your rods.
Screen wash bottle self-emptys
The screenwash reservoir on the 'ol Cinq is hidden under the right hand front wing behind the plastic wheel arch liner. Due to their placement the screen wash pumps (One for front & one for rear) are subject to pretty bad corrosion. So much so that they rot out and leak.
Clonk! - over bumps rides again
I can see we're going to have to have a dedicated 'clonk' section here. Anyway, both Cinq's & Sei's both have rear trailing arms that are rubber bush mounted at the pivot point. In effect when these babies wear out they will clonk summat chronic on bumps and potholes. The recognised cure is to replace the trailing arm complete (£100+per side) The good news is that replacement bushes are available in the aftermarket. And for less than it costs to take the missus out for the night - and they're quieter too *grin*
Heavy Clutch Pedal
So, Your left leg is beginning to look like Arnie Swartzenegger's. It's time for a little investigation.
For vehicles equipped with a clutch CABLE.
For vehicle with a HYDRAULIC clutch
So, all that checks out OK does it? In that case the problem lies within the bell housing and with most cars it means gearbox out.
If yours falls into the above catagory then I'm afraid it will almost certainly need a new clutch cover plate and bearing.
Whilst were on clutch doom 'n gloom, other symptoms of clutch demise are; Slipping when accelerating in gear, and quite often 'crunching' into reverse or occasionally other gears even when you are being especially careful.
To be continued...........
Please note that any faults and/or cures are in no way intended to substitute correct and professional fault diagnosis. The comments above are purely for informational and entertainment purposes and we cannot be held liable in any way whatsoever for any consequences of any kind due to acting on information read within this domain. The aforementioned comments are based on actual faults encountered, but any resemblence to a real fault either living or dead is purely coincidental. (warning all faults may contain traces of nuts)
in the meantime however, if you have any common faults & remedies you would like to share, send 'em in and we'll post them.
To speed the process of identifying parts correctly, it is essential to have the correct
information to hand. For both Peugeots and Citroëns the chassis number can be very useful. They can be found on a plate rivetted to the body, usually under the bonnet.
Peugeot chassis numbers for latter day vehicles begin VF3. Citroën will begin
VF7. Both will normally be a combination of 17 digits and letters.
further to the above, a few simple facts about which model, body type and engine size and type the vehicle is sporting is usually sufficient. Armed with this information the folk at eurocarcare will be able to supply you superb replacement parts at highly competitive prices right first time.
Renault
Renaults use a fairly complex system of vehicle identification in comparison to the other French marques. 'Oval plate' details rule the day. The oval plate on vehicles built before around 1996 can be found under the bonnet of most variants, on later vehicles a sticker can be located on the 'B' post where the drivers door latches shut.
For engine particulars it's always handy to make a note of your engine type number and engine fabrication number. These are again stamped either directly onto the engine block or on a plate rivetted to the block. (usually at the front half way down the block, but not always! On some engine versions it's on the back.)
Fiat & Alfa Romeo
Fiat & Alfa are probably the most simple of all the marques to identify parts for. The majority of vehicle details can be picked up purely from the chassis number. Eper (Fiat,Alfa & Lancias parts look-up system) will basically eliminate all products not suitable for a particular vehicle when the VIN number is entered. The Vin number for the vast majority of Fiats & Alfas can be found under the bonnet. On some of the smaller models it may be located in the boot. The number will start for example ZFA for Fiat, ZAR for Alfa Romeo and ZLA for Lancia. The next three numbers denote the model Punto1 =176, Punto2 =188 Alfa 156 =932 and so forth. next will undoubtedly follow 000* which is just a filler used on later variants, followed by the last eight digits which is the serial number. Paint code can usually be found on a small sticker attached to the boot or tailgate lid.
[Saxo/106/306/406 +]
A possible easy fix if you're lucky. pretty commonly it is a poor or non-existant connexion located beneath the front seats. if your warning lamp is on, look for the (orange usually) connector beneath the seats leading to the seatbelt pretensioners. This connexion can be disturbed by rogue objects left lying around in the rear footwells (and it is amazing what you find there - embarrassing even), or just due to regular movement of the seat. If like me you are a strapping 6 foot 31/2" and you missus is 2 foot 1" the front seats are back n' forth like a fiddler's whatsit. Anyway, I digress. Either way, try disconnecting and reconnecting. If that puts the light out, job done. ....but it will probably reoccur. For a permanent fix get the connexions 'hard-wired'. A good soldered joint will sort the problem for good. !!warning!! please don't go prodding about the terminals with any sort of powered test gear. The seatbelt pyrotechnic pretensioners are electronically activated and could very easily be triggered, and then.... KABOOM !!
Ssshhh Click Click Click Click Click Shhh! every second...Accumulator Sphere
[ID/DS/SM/BX/CX/GS/Xantia/XM]
Submitted by Dave C
On a healthy system the click or hiss from a regulator should be approximately every 15-25 seconds. If the regulator ticks or hisses at shorter intervals than this, it is a sign that the accumulator sphere is worn and needs to be replaced. Much like suspension spheres the diaphragm between the gas and fluid inside the sphere perforates over time, and weakens until eventually all the sphere stores is fluid (and consequently cannot maintain any pressure). Get this changed as the accumulator sphere also holds a charge of pressure in the event that any component of the system fails (without it's assistance you'll be left with NO brakes, steering etc!). Luckly replacements are inexpensive, and you should notice an immediate improvement in your vehicle, and substantially reduce the load on your hydraulic pump :D
Clutch Down – BANG, Clutch Pedal Sits on the Floor
[Xantia/ZX]
Submitted by Dave C
*note by eurocarcare - we actually employ a technician with 3 elbows and 9 fingers on each hand expressly for the purpose 
Misty Windows that don’t clear, wet carpet, steam from dash vents, smell of antifreeze
[Anything watercooled with a heater ]
Submitted by Dave C
Hdi diesel - ticking noise or rattle
[All Hdi variants]
It's more than likely the front crankshaft pulley. Citroen/Peugeot in thier infinite wisdom have come up with a pulley with an in-built cusioning system that breaks down. You may find traces of 'iron filings' or swarf. If so, this is the last call for Destruction City, seriously folks the pulley can split and if it goes whilst your cruising you can wave bye-bye to a few valves and maybe a cylinder head. If your up for a cam belt change get your garage to inspect the pulley very closely. Many establishments recommend the pulley with the belt change. It will add about £90 to the bill, but 'what price peace of mind?'
Simultaneous Failure of Heated rear window & heater blower
[All Saxo variant]
Constant Velocity Joints
[Anything that moves]
Sadly the same cannot be said for the aluminium clips they use to attach them. It's now very common to find a boot waving freely in the breeze devoid of it's lubricaficious content because the 'big end' clip has corroded away, snapped or just not been man enough for the job.
Woe betide anyone attempting to execute a repair with ligarex strapping. And neoprene boots just laugh at cable ties. So what do we do then? Well we have a few choices to choose from;
B/ Leave it to the main dealer to fit the whole kit for extortion + an-hour-and-a-halfs-labour + VAT?
C/ Measure the diameter of the CV joint and order the clip alone by size from Eurocarcare in finest stainless steel because they spent ages hunting the globe for an appropriate method of repair that wouldn't cost the earth and if you ask nicely they'll pop it on for you in less than half-an-hour.
Ticking Front Brakes
[Xantia] Submitted by Peter W
[Petrol Models]
Most manufacturers fit alloy fuel filters, and if they are not changed periodically they are prone to rotting away. Most filters have little protection, and after a few British winters succumb to the metal moth. - Get out, get under and if yours is white & furry get the thing changed.
[Cinquecento/Seicento]
Try renewing the sealing gaskets or sealing the original ones with a thin skim of fuel resistant jointing compound. (worked for me). Other possibilities are a poorly sealing fuel cap or breather pipe connections.
[AX/Saxo/ZX/106/306 1.0 to 1.6 TU engine]
Best thing here is to save your money and clean the engine every so often (if it bothers you) and most importantly check the oil level regularly. - [but you do that on a weekly basis anyway, don't you] *grin*
[Renault 16v variants]
[Renault/Citroen/Peugeot - Petrol]
Citroen/Peugeot = a long lead with a single bolt holding the sensor end down
Saxo/106 = Black plastic bracket arrangement with a lead plugging into it.
Renault = Banana shaped metal bracket with a sensor attached (usually hidden right below distributor)
[Anything with wheels]
Ok, you get the picture. The Anti Roll Bar on most vehicles is attached in some way to the front lower suspension wishbone or track control arms. Some of the smaller models like Ax/Saxo/106 etc won't be fitted with an A.R.B unless it's a sporty model. In which case, this is nothing to do with you. For those that DO have an A.R.B There will not be a 'link' rod as such, but the outer ends of the A.R.B will be secured to the lower suspension arm by an alloy 'u' clamp and rubber bush. This alloy clamp is prone to fracture, which will of course allow the end of the A.R.B to move around and possibly emit the odd clonk.
The idea of the A.R.B is to help stop vehicle sway when cornering. Ever seen a 2CV cornering? - well they don't have them.
Where the A.R.B meets the front suspension there will be either a long pin with a series of bushes (Clio/Fiat/Alfa's). A 'U' shaped clamp with a bush in it (Saxo/106) or in many other cases a rod with a ball-joint at each end.
They will all wear out eventually, but the rods are favourite to fail first. Common on Xantia/406/ZX/306/156 and many more, but they will all utter the same cry of 'Clonk!' when you hit a bump or pothole. 406's have the added bonus of having REAR vertical rods and rear HORIZONTAL rods. But don't worry they speak the same language.
[Cinquecento]
Now, Fiat in their infinite wisdom choose to service these pumps only as a complete unit with the reservoir at around £55 (Ouch!) Fear not. A replacement pump is available from Eurocarcare for less that the cost of a pint!! The old pumps are easily removed and the spanking new ones just pop in. And whats more they are plastic cased so will not rot out. Result!
[Cinquecento/Seicento]
[Anything with wheels]
It is possible that the nylon inner liner within the cable has worn out and you now have a lot a friction in there. Replace the cable dude!
Some vehicles may have an odd linkage arrangement. Pivots and pulley wheels and that sort of weird stuff. Check to make sure everything is running freely. You may have to release the tension on the cable to do this. Usually easiest to disconnect it from the clutch arm.
Check that the master cylinder (nearest the pedal) is operating correctly, not leaking and that you have fluid in the reservoir!
Also check that the slave cylinder (on the clutch bellhousing) is operating ok. No bent rods, leaks etc.
The majority of cars with a conventional clutch will probably be suffering with wear or fatique to the diaphragm spring. This may be due to a worn clutch release bearing or just wear and tear. Does yours make a loud hissing noise when you depress the clutch pedal? A sure indication of a knackered release bearing. If the bearing dries out it can get extremely loud. OR in the case of my sons car gets VERY VERY loud, (turn the stereo up and ignore it) seizes up, melts, vapourises the diaphragm and punches a hole in the bell housing with the clutch release arm (duh!). I digress.
Some cars may have a cross shaft & fork that the clutch bearing mounts on. This shaft usually runs in nylon or bronze bushes. These can seize up and cause a heavy clutch. Always good policy to replace these bushes when renewing the clutch.
For the uninitiated, most vehicles WILL crunch into reverse if you are in a hurry or don't depress the clutch pedal properly. This is because reverse gear in the gearbox has straight cut teeth and NOT synchromesh. Imagine if you could just slide gracefully into reverse (accidentally) at 60mph!! Liquidised transmission and you'd probably be eating through a straw for 3 months from trying to swallow the steering wheel :)
Citroën & Peugeot
Also very important is the RP or ORGA number. This is a four digit code that identifies the day any
particular vehicle was built. (The system was introduced late in 1976). The RP can be found in different locations on the various models. Most
Citroëns and Peugeots into the late 90's will have the code stencilled in paint (more often than
not in a contrasting colour) under the bonnet or on the panel adjascent the drivers door hinges.
Alternatively, later cars may have a sticker. Some RP numbers run into 6 digits. It is the first 4 that denote the year of birth. Try the RP/Orga converter when you have located your code, and find out when your car was built.
If you come across a 4
'letter' code, this is actually the paint code. Useful if you need to order paint.
The oval plate will have up to 5 rows of numbers and/or letters. The first number (usually referred to as the oval plate number) indicates the model, body shape and engine size and is a four digit code made up of letters and/or numbers, the middle rows offer various spec options and the country of sale. The fabrication number (usually one letter and six numbers) allows us to work out when the vehicle was produced, sometimes down to the exact day.
Oval plate examples. From the 70's 80's & 90's and the latest style used today.
Example of; left Alfa 33 VIN and right Fiat 131 VIN
Yes they all do rotate. However some higher performance tyres are what is generally termed as 'directional'. this means that the tread pattern has been designed to perform in one direction only. Take a peek at the picture. Notice that the funky tread grooves radiate outwards in a rather cool pattern. This, as well as being quite pretty is functional inasmuchas road surface water is forced out from the centre of the tyre towards the outer edges. But of course this will only work if the tyre is rotating in the correct direction. Swap the tyre to the opposite side of your car, and water will be sucked in toward the centre of the tyre effectively floating the tyre on a bed of liquid. This is commonly known as 'aquaplaning'. Naturally if the tyre is no longer in contact with the road surface, you will lose traction and/or steering. A very scary thing at high speed.
Similar to directional but with the added technology of left & right-handedness. These very high performance tyres, in addition to being directional, can only be fitted to one side of the car. IE if you need a left tyre, you need to buy a 'left' tyre. They can be swapped front to rear, but never left to right. 
What does it mean to you and your car?